For okra emerging pointers see Okra Emerging Success Pointers at the bottom of this post.
Okra is maximum continuously insect and sickness unfastened then again every now and then problems will rise up.
Not unusual okra emerging problems with therapies and controls:
Seeds do not germinate; plants do not emerge. Soil is not warmth enough for germination; soil temperature should be a minimum of 70°F for okra to germinate. Pre-soak seeds in water for 24 hours faster than sowing.
Crops and buds drop faster than pods set. Local weather too scorching or temperatures are fluctuating. Temperatures greater than 95°F would possibly motive plants and buds to drop. Temperatures too cool would possibly motive flower and bud drop.
Plant plants then again pods do not form. Heat and cold can interfere with pollinations. Pollination may well be poor if temperatures upward thrust above 90°F or drop beneath 55°F. Too little mild, water tension, and further nitrogen moreover inhibit pod formation. Plant in amusing sun, in compost-rich soil, and keep the soil flippantly rainy.
Water-soaked spots on leaves; spot grow to be spherical with gray amenities. Leaf spot is a fungus sickness. Plant resistant varieties. Rotate plants. Keep garden free of plant debris. Follow copper dust or liquid copper spray every 7 to 10 days. Plant in well-drained soil. Rotate with other plants.
Black water-soaked blotches on stems and leaves. Anthracnose is a fungus sickness that spreads in most sensible humidity and rainfall. Leaves would perhaps wither and fall. Plant would perhaps die once more. Remove and discard infected plants. Steer clear of working throughout the garden when it is wet which can lead to spread of spores. Plant in well-drained soil. Spray or dust with a suite copper- or sulfur-based fungicide every 7 to 10 days.
Vegetation stunted, leaves yellow, roots decayed. Fusarium root or stem rot is a fungal sickness that favors warmth soil. Remove infected plants and plant debris that harbor fungus. Rotate plants. Rotate plants continuously. Solarize the soil in late spring or summer season.
Leaves turn yellow and then brown from the bottom up; plant loses vigor. Root knot nematode is a microscopic eelworm that attacks roots. Rotate plants. Remove earlier plant debris from garden.
Small rusty-orange to reddish brown or black blisters or pustules on stems and leaves. Rust is a fungus sickness. It is most prevalent in humid spaces. Prune away infected leaves or plants. Plant resistant varieties. Water flippantly; avoid overhead watering.
Leaves are yellowish, curl underneath and grow to be deformed; shiny specks on leaves. Aphids are tiny, oval, and yellowish to greenish pear-shaped insects that colonize on the undersides of leaves. They pass away in the back of sticky excrement known as honeydew which is in a position to transform a black sooty mold. Use insecticidal cleansing cleaning soap.
Leaves yellow; tiny white winged insects spherical plants. Whiteflies will congregate on the undersides of leaves and fly up when disturbed. Remove infested leaves and all the plant if infestation is significant. Introduce actually useful insects into the garden.
White, powdery spots on leaves and pods. Powdery mildew is caused by the use of fungal spores. Spores germinate on dry plant surfaces when the humidity is most sensible; spores do not germinate on wet leaves. Not unusual in late summer season or fall then again does no longer result in loss of plant. Steer clear of water tension. Prune away infected leaves and pods. Keep garden free of plant debris. Rotate plants.
Holes in pods. Corn earworm is a brown-headed caterpillar with lengthwise stripes to 2 inches long; the adult is a night-flying moth with brownish or olive wings and glossy green eyes. The pc virus will tunnel into pods. Handpick caterpillars and break. Use business traps. Dust with Sevin.
Deformed pods. Southern green stink bug is a gradual green bug to ½-inch long. Worm sucks sap from leaves and pods causing them to grow to be twisted and deformed. Spray with insecticidal cleansing cleaning soap. Dust with sabadilla.
Pods are woody and difficult. Okra should be picked just a few days after flowering. Choose pods which can be 1½ to 2 inches long. Choose pods daily.
Okra Emerging Success Pointers:
Planting. Plant okra in entire sun. Okra grows highest in mild, deeply worked soil rich in herbal matter. Add aged compost to the planting bed faster than sowing or transplanting. Pre-soak seeds faster than planting; get began seed indoors to provide them a head get began.
Planting time. Sow okra seeds or set out transplants after all risk of frost is earlier when the soil is a minimum of 60°F.
Care. Keep the garden weed unfastened; mulch to suppress weeds. Hand pull weeds as a way to now not disturb roots. Side dress okra with aged compost after planting and all over again when plants start to set pods. Keep okra flippantly rainy, it’ll transfer almost about then again no longer completely dry. In very talked-about spaces, give okra new life at midseason by the use of pruning stalks once more to 2 inches above the secondary buds. This will from time to time allow plants to send out new growth and flower a second time throughout the fall. Fertilize okra with compost tea after pruning.
Harvest. Harvest pods when they are more youthful and comfortable. Placed on gloves and long sleeves; okra is covered with spines that can aggravate the skin. Pods are able for harvest a merely few days after the plant blooms. Cut back pods when they are 2 to 4 inches long, do not let pods grow to be tricky; harvest every other day. Use pods instantly after harvest
